Coat



' J. GlUSEFF-l Dec. 5, 1944.

COAT

Filed July 17, 1943 IN VEN TOR. Jerome Gz'useffz llullnlialzllnll lle lini:lnllinllnn Iii-In I! Patented Dec. 5, 1944 Y F- w COAT Jerome Giuseffi, Cincinnati, Ohio, assignor to The Goodall Worsted Company,

Maine, a corporation of Maine Sanford,

ApplicationjJuly 17, 1943, serial No. 495,108

Claims.

This invention relates tola coat, particularly of the jacket typeand provided withmeans for securing an undisturbed and undistorted hang or drape of the body of thecoat despite movementofthe arms. I

.A further object ofthe inventionwis to provide a, coat of the kind described in which themeans employed in accordance with the invention do not modify the desired appearance of the coat as a whole.

Another object is to provide a coat of this kind in which the construction is simple and efficient, and the additional material utilized negligible.

These and other objects are attained by the means described herein and illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in'which:

Fig. 2 is a plan view showing the coat of this 7 invention turned inside out and doubled upon itself for disclosing the construction of this invention adjacent the armhole.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2. V

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a piece of material cut in accordance with the present invention, and forming the under or inner side of one of the sleeves.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the upper portion of the piece seen in Fig. 4, with the top extension doubled upon itself.

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view Fig. 5. l

One of the difiiculties long apparent in the construction of a coat or other sleeved garment has been the lifting and distortion of the body of the garment when the arms are raised or similarly moved. The problem has not been satisfactorily solved heretofore, although attempts have been made to do so, such as by the provision of plaits I or the like extending rearwardly of the shoulder, Such constructions, however, have not been practicable, and moreover, have so changed the appearance of the garment as to be undesirable on line 6 6 of from this viewpoint also..

The present invention overcomes these and similar diificulties by providing briefly foran extension attached to the underside of the sleeve at the top, and so connected to the body of the coat below the armhole that, upon raising of the arm, the extension acts in the manner of a hinge element, movingoutwar-dly of the body of the coat in accordance with the requirements of the the armhole asseen at 25, in Figs. 2 and 3, when normal down-hanging arm movement, but, leaving the body of the :coat undisturbed.

In greater detail, and with reference to the drawing, the in vention contemplates a coat of any suitable general. construction, the one shown herein being of the skeleton lined type and comprising the body 10, collar ll, shoulder l2 and sleeve 13.

The sleeve of the present construction is formed of an upper or outer piece M, Fig. l, and a lower or underpiece l5, Figs. 1 and 4. The piece l4 may be of the usual construction, but the piece I5, in accordance with the present invention, is formed at the top with an extension l6, Fig. 4, of such outline as when folded upon itself, along a diagonal line [1, assumes a generally triangular form such as seen in Fig. 5, at which. time said extension comprises an outer ply l8 and an inner ply l9.

The sleeve, provided with an under piece of the form just described, is applied to the armhole portion of the body 10 by attaching the outer piece I4 to the shoulder portions I2 as at 20, Fig. 3. The underarm piece [5, however, is attached to the coat body as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2, with the underlying plies l8 and I9 of the extension l6 disposed against the outer surface of the coat body, under the armhole. The parts are held in this position by stitching 2 I, which passes through 0 the lateral edge portions of both of the plies l8 and IS. The inner ply l9, as seen in Fig. 5, is cut with an arcuate upper edge 22 so as to conformwith the lower portions of the armhole and with which portions said arcuate edge 22 is attached as at 23, Fig. 3. Suitable binding 24 covers the exposed edges at the armhole of the coat.

The outer ply I8 is not attached to the armhole portions of the coat as is the inner ply I9.

but rather projects above the lower portions of the sleeve or arm is in position.

Since'the outer ply l8 of the extension l6 has its upper portions free relative to the body of the coat, it functions as a kind ofhinge member providing a surplus which moves outwardly of the body of the coat when the armfis raised, obviating the usual,simultaneous lifting and dismaintains its desired draped appearance.

What is claimed is: I

1. A coat comprising an armhole and provided with a sleeve formed with an under-arm extentortion of the body of the coat, which therefore sion at the top of the sleeve, the extension being of the coat, the top portion of the outer ply nor mally projecting above the lower part of the armhole and free relative thereto whereby upon raising of the arm said outer ply hinges outwardly relative to the body of the coat for obviating lifting and distortion of the latter.

tension doubled downwardly on itself to form an outer ply adjacent the sleeve and an under ply adjacent the body of the coat, the under ply being attached-flat against the body ofthe coat with its upper edge secured to the lower part of the armhole, the outer ply having its edges attached to the body of the coat and the top portions projecting above the lower part of the armhole and attached thereto at opposite sides only forming a surplus adapted upon lifting of the arm to hinge outwardly for obviating lifting and distortion of the body of the coat.

2. A coat having an armhole and comprising a I sleeve formed at the top with an underearm extension doubled downwardly on itself to form an outer ply adjacent the sleeve and an inner ply adjacent the body of the coat, the inner ply being attached flat against the body of the coat with its upper edge secured to the lower part of the armhole, the outer ply having its edges attached to the body of the coat and thetop portions projecting above the lower part of the armhole and free relative thereto whereby upon raising of the arm said outer ply hinges outwardly relative to the body of the coat for obviating lifting and distortion of the latter. I

3. A coat having an armhole and comprising a sleeve formed at the topwith an under-arm ex- 4. A coat formed with an armhole, and a sleeve formed with an under-arm extension having its edges attached to the body'of the coat below the armhole, the upper part of the extension projecting above the lower edge portions of the armhole and free relative thereto for providing a surplus for obviating lifting and distortion of the coat body upon raising of the arm.

- 5'. A coat formed with an armhole, and a sleeve formed with an under-arm extension having its edges attached to the body of the coat below, the armhole, the upper part of the extension projecting above the lower edge portions of the armhole and attachedihereto at opposite sides-only forming a surplus for obviating lifting and distortion of the coat body upon raising of thearm.

' JEROME GIUSEFFI. 

